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There seemed to be nothing available but, when talking to Vilhelm Rasmussen, the local boat builder, we discovered that his personal boat, an eighteen foot Helsingor Jolle designed by Aage Utzon, was for sale. I first met them at Camaret, then at Vigo and Lisbon. A row around the Carlisle Bay anchorage provided a fascinating study of craft that had crossed at least one ocean on their cruises. The dolphins were the most fun. We also saw another English sloop, the well-known Felicity Ann, which had carried Ann Davison from England to New York. Small pleasure craft were not charged for the use of the waterways, but the skippers of the larger yachts often tipped the lock attendants. Melodious island accents from the dark shore advised us to anchor near the Aquatic Club until formalities could be observed in the morning. I visited Herr and Fru Grauballe, a young couple, in their comfortable waterfront home, enjoying their conversation and learning much about Denmark. John Goodwin of South Africa, single-handed, knew how to get the most out of the boat as his twenty- six day passage from the Canaries indicated.

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The following ten days are best forgotten. Otherwise, we relied on smiles and gestures. The ice cream was good, too. Native Dancer was amazingly fast for her size, but her typical English proportions gave her a quick motion. Finally, with many forebodings, we were ready for a trial run which turned out to be an uncomplicated one-day sail to La Rochelle. Orders were given quietly by Captain Mitchell, and carried out in a leisurely way by his. These half-decked keel boats average about twenty feet in length, carry a large low spread of canvas, and have about a ton of shifting inside scrap iron ballast. Extra fuel and water were stowed, and four six-gallon cans were lashed on deck at the shrouds. The yacht club looked too fancy, and the canoe and rowing clubs had been passed in the dark, so I camped in the depressing ruins of the former Kiel naval base, lulled to sleep by the fine music of a nearby open air concert. Gladly leaving the inhospitable port, we had proceeded out into the justly- feared North Sea under ideal conditions.

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Malaga's large port contained more sailing cargo vessels than we had seen previously on the cruise. Jane had volunteered for two two-hour tricks at the helm, to vary the routine and get more experience. We arrived at a compromise by charging two dollars for the 100 yard trip to the quay, since he was left aboard without a boat. Most men wore either a suit jacket or working coveralls. A thunderstorm at midnight tossed us in the Gulf Stream. Again, news received later brought word of misfortune.

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Looking down from the ancient city wall, we observed an endless procession of festive school children, then took refuge from a shower in an ice cream shop where the jolly proprietor delighted in giving us the latest word on local politics, history, and economics. The Sunrise had been converted from a fishing boat by adding a concrete and iron keel which was not overly heavy. The wind had moderated by the time we entered Tangier Bay with the help of the double-reefed main. It was arranged that the Friend would be stored at the Rasmussen and Egholm boatyard and that I would live aboard Amiga while the transfer of title was being arranged. At Nordhorn, my exuberant companions took another route, leaving me paddling in the rain. The faithful old girl used only a few gallons an hour, weathering her test nicely, but we were glad to round up into the shelter of Tangier's new breakwater, and spend a week in that fabulous international smuggling center. mia escort paris helsingør escort

Mia escort paris helsingør escort

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